Tomatoes
For fresh sauce, stick to Roma or plum tomatoes -- many foodies swear by San Marzano tomatoes that are grown in volcanic Neopolitan soil. Why? Whether canned or fresh, they have fewer seeds and lower acidity, making for a sweeter sauce.
What to cook it in
The pan you use largely depends on the type of sauce you’re making. For a quick sauce, you can use a saute pan, but to make a more complex sauce, be sure to cook it in a deep, large saucepan. Either way, steer clear of pans made with aluminum. The reaction it has with tomato acid can lead to metallic-tasting sauce.
Ultimate tool
Use a wooden spoon. Same reason as the pot: Aluminum and lower-grade metals can react with the acid in the tomatoes.
Cooking time
Fresh tomatoes and canned tomatoes should cook for at least 15 to 20 minutes. If you’re making meat sauce, you’ll want to simmer the sauce for two to three hours, which some people call “all day.”
The deal with sugar
Adding a pinch of sugar may help not-so-sweet tomatoes by mellowing out the acidity. Some chefs swear by butter. Because butter is milk-based, adding a pat can help cut down on acidity as well.
Thickening
If your sauce is watery, thicken it with a tablespoon of tomato paste. See if your supermarket sells tubes of the paste, which can last up to six months in the refrigerator once it has been opened.
Say cheese
A good plate of red sauce and pasta isn’t complete until you’ve sprinkled on the grated cheese. Skip the stuff from the green shaker and try either Parmigiano Reggiano or sharper Pecorino Romano.
Invent a secret recipe
Personalize your sauce. Love full-bodied Italian wines? Add some. Love the smell of fresh rosemary? Throw in a sprig.
Glossary
- Amatriciana Made with pancetta, caramelized onions, pureed tomatoes, and red wine.
- Arrabiata Means “angry sauce”; it’s made with crushed red pepper.
- Bolognese The quintessential ragu from Bologna made with tomatoes and a variety of three meats including pork, veal, and beef.
- Marinara Sailor-style, this is your basic tomato sauce with added oregano.
- Puttanesca Means “whore-style” in Italian; it's been said that prostitutes would whip it up between jobs. It’s a sauce made with black olives, capers, and anchovies.
- Ragu In Italian cookery, ragu simply means a tomato sauce with meat. Depending on where you come from in Italy, the recipe and meats will vary.
- Vodka A basic sauce with added vodka and heavy cream.
-- Maria Ricapito
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